- The exhausts were painted with the various colours of the LifeColor rust set. The track ice cleats were dry brushed with the same colours.
- Lighter paint chips were simulated using LifeColor “4BO Var” (UA239), applied with a sponge, brush or flicked from the end of a brush.
- Darker paint chips were simulated using Vallejo Model Color “German Camouflage Black Brown” (70822), applied with a sponge, brush or flicked from the end of a brush.
Primer: Tamiya “Fine Surface Primer” (light grey) spray can, applied to the hull and turret.
Black base: A 1:2 mixture of Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black and Mr.Color Leveling Thinner was sprayed all over.
Base coats: Using most of the Mr.Hobby Russian Green modulation set. In all cases the paint was sprayed as a 1:2 mixture in Mr.Color leveling thinner.
- The darkest colour (“RG shadow” CMC13) was sprayed over the entire model, to act as a dark base.
- The next darkest (“RG CM base” CMC10) was sprayed over the bulk of the vehicle, save the deepest recesses.
- “RG highlight 1” CMC11 was sprayed on the upper hull, the sides and top of the turret and the outside part of the wheels only.
- Headlight: Citadel “Runefang Steel”
- Saw: Mr.Color “Super Iron” (SM03), Vallejo Panzer Aces “Old Wood” (310)
- Tyres: Mr.Color “Tyre Black” (137), LifeColor “Tyre Black” (UA733)
- Track ice cleats: Vallejo Panzer Aces “Track Primer” (304)
Gloss coat: A 1:2 mixture of Mr.Color “Clear Gloss” (46) and Mr.Color Leveling Thinner was sprayed over the entire model.
The decals were very nice to use – thinner than some. Apparently they mean “Death to Hitler” and “Glory to our tankers!“.
- As expected, the old Tamiya kit is crude by the standards of today. I tried to make as many upgrades as I could, using equivalent parts from the MiniArt kit (stowage boxes, grab handles, tow hooks, fuel drums and attachments, hinges, road wheels, aerial mount, headlight, horn, periscope mounting, saw – basically anything seen in grey plastic in the above pictures).
- Even so, the running gear is very basic – the mounting for the idler wheel is very wrong – but it will mostly be obscured by the wheels, tracks and subsequent accumulated dirt!
- I also used photo etch pieces from the MiniArt kit or from the Eduard set.
- The barrel was a metal replacement by Eduard.
- The fenders were given a rough and uneven appearance along the top by using a Dremel tool on low speed fitted with a sanding wheel.
- The rear fenders were crumpled up somewhat using a pliers, to simulate collision damage. Next time I will remember to do this before they are attached to the vehicle and to anneal all the brass pieces, to make them easier to deform.
- Many weld lines were added by using 0.3 mm diameter plastic rod, softened with Tamiya cement and sculpted with a blade.
- I added extra flame cut edges to some of the end of the engine deck and exhaust covers, as evidenced on real vehicles.
- The road wheels were cut and filed away in places, to represent damage to the rubber.
“The SU-122 was the first major variant of the successful T-34 chassis… The SU-122 was not meant to deal with other tanks, but only with German fortified positions, strongholds and ranged infantry support.” 
Tamiya 1/35 kit . This was going to be the MiniArt kit. However, as I got to grips with it, I became dissatisfied with the fit of the pieces (indeed the number of pieces). I realise that people have got a great finished model out of it but I felt that it was crazily over-engineered in places. In the end I went with the much older Tamiya kit. Obviously, this is a much more basic model out the box, but with replacement bits of photoetch and parts from the MiniArt kit, perhaps it will come out alright.
241st Tank Brigade, Southern Russia, late 1942.