- The entire vehicle was washed with AMMO “Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles wash” (A.MIG-1005), blending in with enamel thinner.
- Various sections were washed with AK Interactive “Light Rust Wash for Green Vehicles” (AK046), blending in with enamel thinner.
- Tracks washed with AMMO “Africa Korps Wash” (A.MIG-1001), blending in with enamel thinner.
- The hull section lines were washed with AMMO “Panel Line Wash Dark Green Grey” (A.MIG-1608) – the excess was removed with cotton wool tip dampened with white spirit.
- Chipping was achieved with Vallejo Model Color “German Camouflage Black Brown” 70822, using sponge, fine brush or speckling by flicking from an old brush.
We are slowly getting around to replacing the two front doors, one at a time. Internally they are quite rusted away at the bottom, as these doors are prone to do. We thought that part of that effort should include replacing hinges and fixtures, so we made a start there. You can get lovely hinges made of machined aluminium, which will last for ever, but, aside from the price, they don’t quite fit the look of this vehicle – too good looking for it! So, we got the original Land Rover part (lower front right LR074026), a classic bit of cast metal. Obviously this was unpainted, so in turn it was lightly rubbed over with wet sand paper, cleaned with white spirit, then sprayed with etch primer, grey primer, the body colour (“Epsom Green”) and finally the protecting lacquer. The existing rusty hinge bolts came out surprisingly easily and the new one fitted up, using new stainless steel fasteners. Looks much nicer. Only three more to do.
We have already replaced all the lights with LED versions, except the headlights. With winter approaching it was time to do them too. We choose Truck-Lite ones – apparently this company also supplies the US Army, so we figured that they should be robust! Connecting them up to the existing H4 terminals was easy enough. There were additional unterminated wires coming from the lights which you could optionally use to feed from the side light wiring (i.e. the round lights to the outside of the main lights), thus providing a daylight running light (or position light) function – see the result in the bottom left picture. In order to do this we had to terminate these wires with an econoseal connector and connect them into the existing side light wiring, using this splitter. Finally, in order to get this working properly it was necessary to replace the obsolete “dim dip relay” (part YWC10050) – done by removing the dashboard instrument panel – with a jumper (part YWZ10003). With all this done we have a daylight function, dipped and full beam – happily the last two provide very bright, pure white light.
When working on the vehicle it is not uncommon for me to place things on the wingtop. In order to protect them from any damage – and to complement the existing side plates – we decided to fit the Masai wingtop chequer plate. Placing a self adhesive gasket under the plates first, it was easy to fit them up using countersunk machine screws. Actually, were we doing this now, we would use rivnuts instead of regular nuts, making the job even easier.