Skarach's world

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T-34/76 (model 1940) build – Part 3:Painting

Primer: Tamiya “Fine Surface Primer” (light grey) spray can, applied to the hull and turret.

Base coats: Using most of the Mr.Hobby Russian Green modulation set. In all cases the paint was sprayed as a 1:2 mixture in Mr.Color leveling thinner.

  • The darkest colour (“RG shadow” CMC13) was sprayed over the entire model, to act as a dark base.
  • The next darkest (“RG CM base” CMC10) was sprayed over the bulk of the vehicle, save the deepest recesses.
  • “RG highlight 1” CMC11 was sprayed on the upper hull, the sides and top of the turret and the outside part of the wheels only.

In this case I am mostly using these paints because I like the colours and not that I want to achieve any pronounced colour gradients across the model surfaces.


  • Machine gun: Vallejo Model Color “Black” (70950)
  • Headlights: LifeColor “Gloss Silver” (LC74)
  • Rear light: Vallejo Model Color “Red” 70947
  • Spade: Vallejo Model Color “Black Grey” (70862), Vallejo Panzer Aces “Old Wood” (310)
  • Stowage straps: Vallejo Panzer Aces “Canvas” (314), LifeColor “Matt Natural Metal” (LC24)
  • Tyres: Tamiya “Rubber Black” (XF-85)

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T-34/76 (model 1940) build – Part 2:Assembly

  • The base model was augmented with most of the parts of the Eduard photoetch set (#37723). Before attaching the end grille, I sprayed the underneath with primer and then Mr.Color “Russian Green (1) – USSR tank early WWII” (135), as it would be difficult to access for painting afterwards. As an aside, I don’t trust this colour – it looks too bright to me now, even after subsequent weathering steps. I think it will be relegated to this sort of purpose or for a generic green. The only thing I didn’t like about this photoetch set (and it is not limited to this set only) is the small handles on the sides of the hull – of course they are better than the nasty moulded on blobs which were originally present but they are not the right shape if you look at the real thing. I suppose they could be done with really fine wire to give a rounder shape. However, I am not sure that my metal working skills are up to reliably shaping these. Perhaps the best are separate plastic pieces which come in certain kits – they are the correct shape even if they might need scaling down a little.
  • The kit barrel was replaced by the 76 mm L/11 barrel from RB Model (#35B130).

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T-34/76 (model 1940) build – Part 1:Introduction

The vehicle

“The T-34/76 model 1940 was the first production version, largely derived from the previous A-32 prototypes. Hundreds of them were about to be put in service in July 1941. Around 1066 were ready when Operation Barbarossa was launched. They performed well despite the lack of training of their crews and inept command, just like the KV-1. The Panzers couldn’t match them in one-on-one combat, but the poor doctrine and low numbers of T-34’s available made the new tank quite vulnerable, and many were lost.” [1]

The kit

Dragon 1/35 kit [2]. Yes, another T-34, to join my two previously complete ones. What can I say? My favourite tank of all, although not this particular model year.



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SU-152 (late)

Unknown unit, 1943?

SU-152 (late) build – Part 1:Introduction
SU-152 (late) build – Part 2:Assembly
SU-152 (late) build – Part 3:Painting
SU-152 (late) build – Part 4:Weathering (rust)
SU-152 (late) build – Part 5:Weathering (chipping)
SU-152 (late) build – Part 6:Weathering (wash)
SU-152 (late) build – Part 7:Weathering (fading and streaks)
SU-152 (late) build – Part 8:Weathering (dust and rain marks)
SU-152 (late) build – Part 9:Tracks
SU-152 (late) build – Part 10:Weathering (dirt and mud)
SU-152 (late) build – Part 11:Weathering (oil and fuel stains, final effects)

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SU-152 (late) build – Part 11:Weathering (oil and fuel stains, final effects)

  • At this stage I attached any remaining items – the tow cable and shackles, the headlight – as well as a few stowed items (wooden crate, spare tracks, spent 152 mm ML-20 shell cases from RB Model #35P16), in order that they be incorporated into the overall weathering scheme.
  • Dilute mixtures of Abteilung 502 “Engine Grease” (ABT160) and “Bitumen” (ABT004) oil paint in enamel thinners were either painted in small patches or flicked from a brush onto the surfaces of the hull and running gear, to represent the subtlest stains or patches.
  • More concentrated wet patches on the hull were achieved by addition of thicker mixtures of Humbrol “Gloss Cote” in enamel thinners.
  • “Engine Grease” oil paint – dissolved in enamel thinners to a much higher concentration – was added to parts of the running gear, certain wheels (to represent leakage from a seal), hatch hinges and parts of the engine deck to represent older oil stains. Once dry, Humbrol “Gloss Cote” was added to it, to represent newer, glossier oil stains.
  • A dilute mixture of “Bitumen” oil paint and Humbrol “Gloss Cote” in enamel thinners was added to the extra fuel drums and surrounding areas to present diesel stains. Later, neat Humbrol “Gloss Cote” was applied over the top of some of these stains, to represent fresher spills.
  • The metal tools and barrel end were lightly brushed with AK Interactive “Dark Steel” (AK086) pigment.
  • Tamiya “Soot” weathering powder and Vallejo “Carbon Black” pigment (73116) was added to the area of the exhausts, using a rubber brush. This was followed by adding small drops of  a mixture of Abteilung 502 “Engine Grease” (ABT160) oil paint and Humbrol “Gloss Cote” in enamel thinner onto the same area, to simulate oil and other waste substances in the fuel.