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Land Rover Defender 90 renovation – intercooler hoses

Our garage suggested that the engine could do with new silicone hoses for the intercooler\turbo system. The existing ones had got “collapsible” over the preceding years, leading to slight power loss. Fitting the new ones (turbo to intercooler pipe, intercooler pipe to intercooler and intercooler to inlet manifold) and the accompanying clips was easy – before and after pictures above. They look good too!

Parts used:

  • TF732 – Defender Td5 silicone hose kit
  • PYC102340 – hose clip 60 mm spring band x 4
  • PYC102350 – hose clip 50-70 mm x 1
  • PYC102360 – hose clip 55-70 mm x 1

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Land Rover Defender 90 renovation – headlights

We have already replaced all the lights with LED versions, except the headlights. With winter approaching it was time to do them too. We choose Truck-Lite ones – apparently this company also supplies the US Army, so we figured that they should be robust! Connecting them up to the existing H4 terminals was easy enough. There were additional unterminated wires coming from the lights which you could optionally use to feed from the side light wiring (i.e. the round lights to the outside of the main lights), thus providing a daylight running light (or position light) function  – see the result in the bottom left picture. In order to do this we had to terminate these wires with an econoseal connector and connect them into the existing side light wiring, using this splitter. Finally, in order to get this working properly it was necessary to replace the obsolete “dim dip relay” (part YWC10050) – done by removing the dashboard instrument panel – with a jumper (part YWZ10003). With all this done we have a daylight function, dipped and full beam – happily the last two provide very bright, pure white light. 



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Land Rover Defender 90 renovation – wing top chequer plate

When working on the vehicle it is not uncommon for me to place things on the wingtop. In order to protect them from any damage – and to complement the existing side plates – we decided to fit the Masai wingtop chequer plate. Placing a self adhesive gasket under the plates first, it was easy to fit them up using countersunk machine screws. Actually, were we doing this now, we would use rivnuts instead of regular nuts, making the job even easier.

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Land Rover Defender 90 renovation – light guards and rivnuts

I am quite a fan of light guards on my vehicle. So, when I saw that you could also get them for the side repeater lights, it was clear that I had to fit them also! I didn’t think that the lights were in great danger of being damaged, but rather that these guards would act as some protection against a casual thief. This time, we used rivnuts to attach them to the wings. Testing their installation on some metal pieces first, using a Sealey “Short-Arm Threaded Nut Riveter“, it seemed to go better matching the type of metal (steel, aluminium) to a rivnut of the same metal. Otherwise, for example, attaching a stainless steel rivnut to a thin aluminium sheet (which is what the Defender wings are made of) was not satisfactory. So, for the real thing, we used aluminium rivnuts. They form a decent attachment point for bolts or machine screws, without the need for an accompanying nut in hard to reach places. I wish we had used these earlier for attaching other items, rather than nuts and bolts or self-tapping screws. Sometime we might go back to these earlier attachments and replace them with this sort.



Land Rover Defender 90 renovation – interior lights, side indicators, reverse light, fog light

We are slowly replacing the weaker bulb lights with brighter LED lights (below) – after this lot, only the headlights are left.

  • Interior lights (MUD UK) – these were easy to fit and an instant improvement over the originals. One neat aspect is that you can choose between white or red illumination (for night time).
  • Side indicator lights (Nakatanenga)
  • Fog and reverse lights (MUD UK) – as usual, the original lamp fixtures were very corroded! We ended up removing the plastic box with a Dremel cutting disc and hole cutting drill bit, then sawing the remaining bolt in half. Any slight damage to the underlying metal was covered by the installation of the circular 95mm NAS plinth (part number LR009773). This is meant to be fixed using a hexagonal bolt held in the captive hole of the plinth, but we found getting a spanner on the nut from behind the back panel very tricky. In the end, we opted for securing it with self tapping screws. The bare wires were terminated with a female econoseal connector (using the crimping tool shown). Finally the lamp was connected up and screwed into the plinth.