Doing this model for a second time I realised that much of the detail on the wheel bogies will not be seen once the skirts are attached and thus were omitted. For the track construction I glued them together with the help of a balsa wood jig. For the curved sections I bent them around the idler wheel and sprocket until the glue set. There was no need to assemble the top track run. I left off the track to allow ease of painting for it and the wheels.
I started this model a while ago and got some way into it before problems arose in the fitting of the top and bottom parts of the hull and I was forced to abandon it. The issue I had is referred to in this review of the model. Basically, there seems to be a problem getting a perfect fit – without any gaps – for the superstructure and where the side skirts attach to the front and rear fenders. Well, it’s been a problem for me, at least. The first time I had assembled the entire lower hull, wheels and side skirts, only to get insurmountable fitting issues when attaching the top part of the hull and back plate. But, determined to get this one done, I tried again, reversing the order of assembly (and going against the instructions) – attaching all parts of the hull first and adding the wheels (to be detailed later) and side skirts afterwards. At least this time I got a perfect join for the hull pieces. There is still too large of a gap between the side skirt and rear fender on one side for my liking but it will have to do. It’s a bit of a hack but I decided to cover up the worst of it with a simulated canvas sheet, sculpted from Kneadatite. Elsewhere I used Mr.Surfacer 1000 to repair any damage to the cast texture or to add a rougher texture in places, such as the exhaust.
Prototype tank, Soviet Union, 1959.
Object 279 build – Part 1:Introduction
Object 279 build – Part 2:Assembly (wheels)
Object 279 build – Part 3:Assembly (tracks)
Object 279 build – Part 4:Assembly (hull)
Object 279 build – Part 5:Assembly (turret)
Object 279 build – Part 6:Painting (primer and preshading)
Object 279 build – Part 7:Painting (basecoat)
Object 279 build – Part 8:Painting (details)
Object 279 build – Part 9:Stowage
Object 279 build – Part 10:Weathering (chipping)
Object 279 build – Part 11:Weathering (wash)
Object 279 build – Part 12:Weathering (streaks)
Object 279 build – Part 13:Weathering (rust)
Object 279 build – Part 14:Weathering (metal and wood)
Object 279 build – Part 15:Weathering (dust)
Object 279 build – Part 16:Weathering (dry mud)
Object 279 build – Part 17:Weathering (oil and fuel stains)
Application of diluted AK Interactive “Engine Oil” (AK084) or AK Interactive “Fuel Stains” (AK025) as small stains to selective parts of the upper hull, turret ring, wheels and lower hull. Then, undiluted “Engine Oil” added to some parts of the wheels and lower hull.
Normally I don’t go in for “excessive” weathering with a mud effect. But in this case I thought I would make an exception. So, I mixed a 3:2 solution of AK Interactive’s “Summer Kursk Earth” wash (AK080) and “Earth Effects” wash (AK017) and added plaster of Paris until it was the consistency of cream. Balancing the vehicle on its various sides I splattered the mixture from the end of a brush with air from an airbrush onto the lower hull, wheels and tracks. For a very little splatter on the upper hull and turret I flicked the mixture from a small brush.