Skarach's world

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KV-1 (Model 1939) build – Part 3:Painting

Primer: Tamiya “Fine Surface Primer” (light grey) spray can

Base coat: A mixture of 90% Tamiya acrylics (Tamiya XF-26“Deep Green”, Tamiya XF-2 “Flat White” and Tamiya XF-3 “Flat Yellow” in a 4:1:1 ratio) and 10% Tamiya X-22 Clear in Tamiya lacquer thinner (2:1 paint mixture to thinner).

Highlights: A mixture of 90% Tamiya acrylics (Tamiya XF-26“Deep Green”, Tamiya XF-2 “Flat White” and Tamiya XF-3 “Flat Yellow” in a 4:2:2 ratio) and 10% Tamiya X-22 Clear in Tamiya lacquer thinner (2:1 paint mixture to thinner) was sprayed onto the upper horizontal surfaces only.


  • Headlight: Citadel “Mithril Silver”
  • Machine guns: Vallejo Model Color “Black” 70950
  • Metal cables: Vallejo Model Color “Black Grey” 70862

The paint was protected with Humbrol Clear gloss varnish and then Citadel Purity Seal satin varnish was sprayed on.

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KV-1 (Model 1939) build – Part 2:Assembly

Not much to report here – this went together very easily, as expected for a relatively simple kit.

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KV-1 (Model 1939) build – Part 1:Introduction

The vehicle


“Named after Klimenti Voroshilov, the People’s Commissar for Defence, the KVs proved a nasty surprise for German tank crews during the early days of Operation Barbarossa. Although slow, they were extremely heavily armoured.” [1]

Good, no-nonsense tanks, I reckon. Having seen one myself it is indeed an impressive machine [2].

The kit


Trumpeter 1/35 kit [3]. This kit – of the first production tanks in the KV series – is just one of many KV variants which Trumpeter have produced [4] [5].


1. KV-1 & 2 Heavy Tanks 1939–45, Steven J Zaloga & Jim Kinnear, Osprey Publishing, 1995 (link)

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Land Rover Defender 90 renovation – vent hinge pins

A Defender of the age of my vehicle has a sophisticated “air conditioning” unit, otherwise known as an open vent to allow inward air rush (shown in the first image). Like a lot of other fittings the pins which secure it were corroded and prevented one of the vents from opening properly. We thought it would be a good idea to replace this with new ones (lubricated with copper grease). The dome nuts on the old pins were resistant to unscrewing with all tools tried (it’s kind of hard to get a proper hold on them with a socket, for example). In the end we cut through the pins with my Dremel 300, using the 38mm metal cutting disc. There is a little amount of damage to the hinge metal closest to where we cut, which we might be able to cover with paint. In all honestly, those just join the long list of chips, dents, scratches and blemishes on the body work of a vehicle of this age. Anyway, the vents open much better now.

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Land Rover Defender 90 renovation – rear door rubber seal retainer

As can be seen in the first image, the rear door rubber seal retainer (black metal strip nearest the door) was not looking in the best condition. It was a simple enough job to replace it (and the underlying rubber seal), although, not for the first time, it took more effort to remove the existing (corroded) item. In the end we had to get brutal with the screws, as they were totally worn on the heads and no driver could release them. Thus, we resorted to taking the heads off with an angle grinder. The original plan was to then extract or drill the remain part of the screws out. Err, no. I think that we would still be drilling now (after several broken drill bits) as those things internally were solid. It is perhaps unfortunate for the eventual look of the piece but we ended up drilling a new set of holes in the body and retaining strip. Perhaps I can find some rubber plugs to cover the pre-drilled holes? Incidentally, any readers following this and due to do the same job might want to avoid our mistake of initially fitting the rubber seal upside down and wondering why the door didn’t close. It might save the neighbours hearing your cursing too!



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