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A7V (weathered)

I did the A7V a while ago, but without any serious weathering. It’s not exactly a masterpiece of kit design, although looking at it again I should perhaps have made a better effort with some of the hull gaps. Anyway, in between waiting on other models, I decided to try to give it a more realistic, “used”, look. So, in order:

  • Chipping - Vallejo Model Color “German Camouflage Black Brown” (70822) applied by sponge.
  • Rust (exhaust) – repainted with Lifecolor  paints  (UA704, UA703, UA702, UA701).
  • Wash – pin wash with AK Interactive “Wash for Panzer Grey” (AK070).
  • Wash – panel line wash with AMMO “Dark Green Grey” wash (A.MIG-1608).
  • Wash – wash with AK Interactive “Light Rust Wash for Green Vehicles” (AK046) around exhausts.
  • Filter – the running gear was treated with AK Interactive “Blue for Panzer Grey Filter” (AK071).
  • Oil fading – using Mig Productions 502 Abteilung oil paints (German Grey Highlight ABT170, Faded Grey ABT100, German Three Tone Fading ABT155, German Ochre ABT092, Blue-Green for German Grey ABT230). Followed by selective highlights on certain high points (grills, some hatches) with German Grey Highlight ABT170.
  • Streaks (grime) – vertical streaks with AK Interactive “”Streaking Grime for Panzer Grey” (AK069).
  • Streaks (rust) – vertical streaks with AK Interactive “”Rust Streaks” (AK013).
  • Dust –  A 1:1 mixture of Tamiya Acrylic XF-57 “Buff” and Tamiya Acrylic XF-52 “Flat Earth” in Tamiya X-20A thinner (10% paint mixture in thinner) was sprayed on the tracks, wheels and lowest parts of the hull.
  • Dust\dried mud – I created the below pigment mixes (following this example). The “medium” mix was applied sparingly to the tracks, running gear, lower sides of the hull and selective parts of the top using a brush and fixed with spraying Tamiya X-20A thinner. Later, small amounts were flicked from the end of a brush onto the lower parts of the hull. This was meant to be the lightest dust or dried mud. The process was repeated, in a more substantial way, with the “dark” mix, to represent newer layers of dirt or dried mud.
  • Fresh mud – AK Interactive “Fresh Mud” (AK016) was flicked onto the lowest parts of the hull, running gear and tracks to represent the freshest, wettest mud.
  • Metal – the guns and contact points of the track were rubbed with AK Interactive “Dark Steel” pigment (AK086), using either a brush or finger tip.
  • Soot – The soot powder from Tamiya Weathering Master Set B was added to the ends of the exhaust and immediately on the surface of the hull in a subtle plume.
  • Oil stains – AK Interactive “Engine oil” (AK084) and AK Interactive “Fuel Stains” (AK025) – both diluted with white spirit – were added to the running gear and tracks. The latter was also flicked onto select surfaces of the hull, to represent moisture stains.

Light pigment mix

  • AK Interactive “North Africa Dust” (AK041) – 1 part
  • AK Interactive “Light Dust” (AK040) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Middle East Dust” (A.MIG-3018) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Sand” (A.MIG-3012) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Concrete” (A.MIG-3010) – 1 part

Medium pigment mix

  • Light mix – 5 parts
  • AK Interactive “European Earth” (AK042) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Rubble” (A.MIG-3013) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Airfield Dust” (A.MIG-3011) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Brick Dust” (A.MIG-3015) – 1 part
  • Vallejo “Light Sienna” (73104) – 1 part

Dark pigment mix

  • Medium mix – 5 parts
  • AK Interactive “Dark Earth” (AK081) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Russian Earth” (A.MIG-3014) – 1 part
  • AMMO “Track Rust” (A.MIG-3008) – 1 part
  • Vallejo “Natural Umber” (73109) – 1 part
  • Vallejo “Burnt Umber” (73110) – 1 part

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Land Rover WMIK build – Part 2:Assembly

Learning some lessons from the Jackal build I left off more of the kit pieces to be painted separately (and more easily) before joining to the kit. I used some (but not all!) of the additional photo etch pieces. The tyres were swapped out for the resin ones by Rhino. I must confess that I still find 1/48 scale vehicles to be harder to deal with than either 1/35  or 1/72 scale.

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Land Rover WMIK build – Part 1:Introduction

The vehicle


The British Army states that

“WMIK (Weapons Mounted Installation Kit) is a lightly-armoured, highly-mobile fire support and force protection Land Rover. It is manned by a crew of three, commander, driver and gunner, and it can carry a range of weapons including; the General Purpose Machine Gun (GPMG), the Heavy Machine Gun (HMG) and Grenade Machine Gun (GMG).” [1]

Of course, there is a tradition of using such vehicle types, going back to the beginnings of the SAS in North Africa during the Second World War [2] [3]. However, because of the vulnerability of such vehicles to IEDs, more protective vehicles, such as the Jackal, have been introduced.

The kit


Airfix 1/48 kit [4]. Having some delays with painting the Sherman (which should be read as I somehow managed to mess it up to the extent that I will have to start over with it!) I moved onto this model as a (hopefully) quick interlude to restore my spirits. I suppose I really should be doing the 1/35 scale kit, for maximum detail and accuracy, but I happen to have most of the Airfix Afghanistan vehicle range, either built or in the stash, so the choice was made.



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Sherman II (Direct Vision Type) build – Part 2:Assembly

  • Pretty standard stuff, apart from exchanging the kit’s plastic two part 75 mm L/40 barrel with a metal one from RB Model (#35B03).


Sherman II (Direct Vision Type) build – Part 1:Introduction

The vehicle


The Sherman II (M4A1) “Direct Vision Type” means that it was “built with direct vision [slots] for driver/assistant” [1]. One of the myriad of Sherman types used by the British [2], it first saw action at El Alamein in 1942 [3].

The kit


Tasca 1/35 kit [4]. I was impressed with Tasca’s Sherman Firefly kit when I built that a couple of years ago. Looking at my British Army WW2 tank collection I decided that I was missing an earlier Sherman type. Specifically, I like the desert colour schemes so I opted for this North Africa theatre vehicle. This kit should be quick to build – it has a not too high part count and few photo etch pieces. So, it will serve as an “interlude” before a more involved project.




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